View Full Version : Extreme OC Guide for EVGA Classified 580 videocard.

09-24-2011, 11:45 AM
Coming soon...


Most of "professional" overclockers get used to receive confidential OC guides for different videocard and motherboard OC experience. By wording professional i meant here those people who
get benefits or samples for their testing and extreme overclocking events and gatherings. Usually there are always some hints and/or tools which are not public showed to fellow overclockers.
But from other side, I was also on side of pure power users, who are used to get stuff done by themselves first, sometimes with small help from outside.
That's in my meaning, PURE overclocking and tweaking, to understand the basics, then to apply discovered theory on practice, and finally get some results. Results by itself is
not even much important, but fun and process of achievement is the target. So to encourage those who want push Classified 580 beyond borders I will share some hits here, which
I discovered during few month of testing card. Overclockers are free to repost this data, but I would be thankful if they could keep original link to KPC and evga.com forums intact.

First, few words about most of overclockers/gamers who may want to overclock this card without crazy extreme stuff.

Overclocking with stock cooling, aircooling or watercooling is generally same as other GTX 580 cards, with few notes:

■ All three PCIe power plugs must be connected (8pin + 8pin + 6pin)

That's going from hardwired VRM curcuitry used. During extreme overclocking with GPU voltage above 1.4V GTX580 can take more than 700W (http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1203) of power, pushing power supply +12V rails to their limits on most of 1k-1.2kW models. So if we have just two rails from PSU connected to such overclocked monster - they can reach shutdown trigger by OCP, which will make overclocking session end. So extra 6-pin plug is there to give user ability to connect third rail to make power distribution on PSU rails easier.

■ DO NOT switch to OC mode until you want to use EVBot (even if you running subzero chilled/phasechange).
OC mode is dedicated specially for deep subzero temperatures below -50C, when you actually need disabling protection functions like OCP, OVP.
Also OC mode blocks GPU from communication with VRM, so voltage control is fixed to EVBot settings and do not change during whole run.
That was made to allow even beginner extreme overclockers reach decent results without any need of soldering or other geek stuff, but as drawback increase risk if card overheat ;)


OC here is meant "real OC", which is equal to LN2/DICE cooling level :)
For any kind of aircooling/watercooling/chilled/phase (-50c range) - using OC mode is not necessary.
When you switch to OC next things happen:

Activating tuned BIOS without any kind of throttling, overheat protection, overvoltage protection.
Enabling EVBot interface operation for voltage settings control. OC mode showed on back of card by RED LED, Normal - by GREEN.

Using card on aircooling/H2O with OC mode switch can be dangerous if excessive temperature will be reached on GPU/VRM, because of no protection enabled :D.

■ For best OC on air recommended to have good enclosure with enough airflow to VGA area. With good GPU it's quite possible to get 1GHz GPU clocks with just stock cooling.

Prepare card

Ok let's start. There are four versions of EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Classified available to sale, but all them are based on same design, so everything covered here can be applied to any of models.
Overclockers will probably use lowest tier aircooled 1.5GB variant, because of it's lower price. So I chosen 1586 to show general idea.


Let's take a look on aircooled model. High airflow I/O shield bracket removed on pic already, but production boards have them as usual.


We have simple card without fancy backplate, because in tight 3/4-way SLI backplate reduce amount of air between cards, which can lead to worse aircooling performance/decrease of overclock.
Cooler made in blower style to throw heated air away from PC case internals, helping to reduce temperature of motherboard, CPUs, memory and storage. Also turbine blower increased in size to have bigger
margin in tuning (bigger size -> more airflow with same rotation speed). Those who want silent operation - may reduce fanspeed, even on low settings it's more than enough to cool card during heavy gaming.
Those who want to bench/pre-test GPU on air can go 100% fan, which will deliver powerful cooling with drawback as audible noise. In OC mode forces cooling to high speed.
Main target of GTX 580 Classified is to power users, serious gamers and overclockers, so design kept as strong as possible on features like good cooling performance, stable operation and easiness of overclocking.
Those who want quiet system should consider watercooling as an good option.

And because of powerful VRM PCB size was increased too. Card is 280mm long, same as GTX590, but more wide, except SLI connector area. All GTX 580 Classifieds can run 2/3/4-way SLI with hardbridges without any need
of modifications, straight from the box.

Also there are two universal Dual-link DVI outputs and EVBOT Link. NVIDIA GF110 GPU supports only two display outputs at same time, so extra outputs are not much needed on GTX 580's anyway. HDMI connection is easy to do by simple and cheap HDMI-DVI passive adapters.


After removing fansink we can start preparing for subzero cooling. I will show how to apply extreme kit and Kingpincooling.com Tek9 FAT LN2 cooling block on GPU.


Installation is easy, first mount VRM cooling heatsink, which will be in great help to cool power converter components when overclocking GPU with more than 1.4V.
We used DirectFET MOSFET package, which have package top as metal electrode, which is under voltage. So thermal pads is a must here, to prevent shorting components and killing card.

Free hint: if you don't want to spend extra money on extreme cooling kit - you may cut original mem/VRM combined cooling plate to separate VRM part, just like you did on card of other vendors before.


Mount heatsink by four screws and make sure there is good and tight fit. Then you can mount GPU protection bracket.
Metal bracket keeps card PCB from bending when heavy force applied by LN2 container mount. Having tight and firm mount of cooling is essential to get decent overclocking performance,
and protection bracket not used GPU BGA soldering to board is very easy to break or crack. Extreme overclockers know this problem very well when card worked perfectly during LN2 session but went dead/artifacting right after that. We address this issue to ensure long and happy life of GTX 580 Classified under extreme conditions.


After mounting these two components - we are pretty much ready to start.


Here most of extreme guys have their own insulation and preparation technique, some using Blutack, others K-flex sheets and so on.
You can go any way you want, key here is just to keep as small air access to PCB as possible, and protect components and PCB from water exposure.

I will just show fast and dirty way with using only vaseline + some K-Flex on LN2 container. It worked well during few tens of 1-2hrs sessions even with full -196c pot temps.


First grease front side, keep few mm thick layer of vaseline everywhere except GPU and PCIe edge contact area.
Then melt vaseline with +50-+70c heat from heatgun or hairdryer. It will get under memory BGA and in narrow areas between SMDs, preventing water to soak into.


Same operation for back of the card. You may leave open PCB areas without components free from grease, PCB is protected anyway by solder mask.


Now mount LN2 container and prepare system. System must be protected from any possible water spilling from videocard to motherboard. Also PCIe slot must be insulated carefully. Snow or ice in PCIe or near it will prevent videocard from being detected and other session-stopper problems, like link width or PCIe speed descrese.


I used EVGA P67 FTW board here with 2600K CPU as a test system. As you can see, everything covered by multiple layers of thick papertowels.


I also added thin towels around LN2 containers, which are helpful to catch any water from thermos when few hours of pouring. You don't worry about drops of water anymore.


After inspection that everything done right - you are ready to start and push card as hard as you can :)

Few more notes:

1.5GB cards use Samsung ICs for memory


while 3GB models stick to Hynix


I tested both types of memory for overclocking and reached similar performance, but Hynix needed little bit more voltage.

Hints on preparations


Optimal operation conditions


Memory overclocking.

For 1200MHz on Samsung usually 1700-1750mV was enough, while for Hynix that needed 1750-1800.
For 1250MHz both types was happy to run on 1750-1850mV range.
For 1300MHz Samsung took 1800-1850mV, but Hynix required close to 1900mV.
For 1350+MHz Samsung asked for 1950mV, while Hynix chips demand 2000-2050mV.

And as usual, not all cards can overclock same, both GPU and memory domains overclocking depend on actual sample.

Software & BIOS & Tools




Classified HOF


09-24-2011, 11:59 AM
memory question answered... but which one scales better? :D

hynix 3gb
samsung 1.5gb?

09-24-2011, 04:55 PM
Great thread :)

09-24-2011, 06:01 PM
nice tread indeed.

How you get the petrol jelly of the pcb again?

And what are all the small thin whires i see ?
read out points ?

09-24-2011, 06:44 PM
Great guide and crazy staff !
The card don't need any mod right ?? for clocking to hell!!?

09-24-2011, 08:04 PM
You just need some break cleaner to remove the petrol jelly

09-25-2011, 07:43 AM
Nice to see another Overclocking Monster by EVGA.
I don't understand this:
"DO NOT switch to OC mode until you want to use EVBot (even if you running subzero chilled/phasechange)."
I will use EVBot, and LN2, but it mean i have no change normal mode to OCmode?.
What about this wires? (measure points?)...
Great job as usual TiN ;)

09-26-2011, 01:41 PM
DO NOT switch to OC mode until you want to use EVBot (even if you running subzero chilled/phasechange).

No voltage control is possible without EVBot?

Heh, if that's the case, would you be willing to show hard-mod locations for those that don't want to spend the extra fifty bucks? :D

09-26-2011, 01:49 PM
i think switching to OC mode changes next things :

use of EVbot possible,
Disable OCP and overheat protection,
special bios version (cold slow?)

Without EVbot i think you still can set enough voltages for OC.

If i'm wrong please correct me

09-26-2011, 02:57 PM
Will the Eleet software be able to push clocks/voltages without the use of the evbot?

09-26-2011, 03:09 PM
Eleetuner graphics tab, Msi Afterburner, rivatuner and Evga Precision will all work i think,
because it's all based on the same principle

09-27-2011, 10:39 AM
what principle? ..from what it looks like there's a CHIL PWM controller on the Classified, where as MSI and Asus use uPI. Support in AB isn't garanteed.

But i do wonder about the EVbot thingy .. looks like it is a MUST for benching this card on LN2? A bit disappointing then. Availability is a problem, and also there's the price issue.

09-27-2011, 10:44 AM
As for Classified vga's, and Classified mobo's was always EVbot support.

so why disappionting then ?

09-27-2011, 10:49 AM
an accessory like EVbot shouldn't be mandatory. Flippin' the switch to OC mode, and using software should work too. Prety much like Lightning and AB. But maybe it does? TiN?

09-27-2011, 05:01 PM
EVBOT has advantages AB doesn't, pretty simple. But you're right, there should be a reasonable substitute for those who don't have one.

09-28-2011, 03:36 AM
We need Evbot for extreme OC? So total costs for Classified xtreme is:

$ 600 for card
$ 100 for evbot
$ 30 for vreg extreme

$ 730

Please tell me you can run extreme voltages without using Evbot :)

09-28-2011, 07:47 AM
It's not mandatory. Control will be added in Eleet soon.

09-30-2011, 06:54 AM

Ow, rly? :D

Something wrong with your calculations, you did not include Tek9 FAT price, ln2 cost and rest of stuff.

Do you include cutting tools, DMM, few hours of time to figure out CB/CBB mods to MSI or ASUS extreme cards pricing too? :D

I mean, rly, if you don't want to buy ready and nice VRM heatsink, you always can cut one from stock air HSF, as you did on MSI Lightnings etc. Same for EVBot, if you don't want easy and hardware controls for your mobos and VGAs - you can skip this and use software which will be available soon. Don't complicate things more than they are ;)

09-30-2011, 07:27 AM
$100 more on hardware means $100 less for LN2. $100 buys me 100L of LN2, which is several intense bench sessions to max out card.

It does matter.

One question: will the eleet software give me totally unlocked voltage range? I don't want another Afterburner-secret-software thing. :D

09-30-2011, 01:11 PM
One more time - you are not required to buy any hardware you don't want. You can save money on thermometers, DMMs, and rest to have extra LN2 if you don't want tools, noone forces you.

As for range - I need to check, noone want stupid zorchers to RMA killed hardware to get new one.

10-01-2011, 10:29 AM
I Like EVbot, but will be good if the card can work with a simple software.
One more thing... would like to know if EVGA motherboard is needed to EVBot...cause will be impossible to get one in my country :( ...
I am anxious to have more information...and...dream about someday we can find a GTX 580 Classified here...lol
Thanks for the support Tin

10-01-2011, 10:33 AM
$100 more on hardware means $100 less for LN2. $100 buys me 100L of LN2, which is several intense bench sessions to max out card.


100 USD is about 15 Lits or less LN2 here :(

10-01-2011, 10:44 AM
No, EVBot can adjust voltage on videocard itself, no need to have motherboard.
But to update/change EVBot firmware EVGA MB is needed tho at this moment.
So if you want to get EVBot for classy - need to contact us first.

That's temporary I think.

And yes, we are working on software support for voltage adjustments and monitoring, that's priority right now, be sure.

10-13-2011, 06:17 PM
Thanks for your Guide TiN!

I've pretested my card with DICE already. Had problems with the memory tho (3GB Hynix). At the begining I just overclocked the GPU and not the memory. After around 3h I tried to overclock the memory and had instant graphicbugs which didnt even go away on stock clocks and stock voltage. Even after I switched the system OFF/ON they were still there. After unmounting the pot and heating up the card everything went fine again.
Also didnt have the extreme-cooling bracket because it's not available in Europe yet. So I just used some normal heatsinks which still worked ;)

GPU: 1315mV
RAM: 1894mV (maybe more possible with higher voltage)
Temp on Load: ~ -65C

No tweaks or anything. Just pure OC test.





Wanted to get LN2 this weekend but the problem ist that I can only use up to 1,3V GPU with the EVBot. In your guide you also talk about voltages of over 1,4V but how to get so far? Different BIOS? Would be waste of LN2 to just try it with 1,3V so I thought I'd ask here maybe you can help me out :up:

10-15-2011, 06:46 PM
What about this?


10-15-2011, 07:04 PM
This is the one I was using before which only allows 1,3vGPU but I got the Extreme-OC version now through TiN :) So problem is solved.

10-16-2011, 05:41 AM
you need that firmware update if you have Classified 580's

10-16-2011, 06:21 AM
Yes I know that. If you scroll down abit you can see I'm the first one who posted in this topic :D I did this BIOS update but it still won't allow you to go over 1,3V normally. Therefor you need a different Firmaware for the EVBot which I got now.

10-16-2011, 06:48 AM
i know.

10-17-2011, 10:58 AM
good work !

11-25-2011, 02:15 PM
Hey guys, I'm hoping y'all can help me figure out some issues I had yesterday taking the GTX580 Classified cold for the first time.

I can only adjust core voltage up to 1.3v in eleet, precision, and EVBot; and there's no PWM control in EVBot. However, Jacob shows 1.8v and PWM control in this post (http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?&m=1236399&mpage=18). I posted there yesterday, but haven't gotten a response yet...

I'm using BIOS on the GPU (firmware 1.1), and the default EVBot firmware for "X58 motherboards" (P03?) which should be for the GTX580 Classified as well, according to the EVBot article (http://www.evga.com/articles/00521/).

Any reason why I don't have these options in EVBot?i7 2600K
2x2GB Dom GT DDR3-1600 6-6-6-20
GTX580 Classified 3GB
SeaSonic Platinum-1000
I'm using a cascade on the GPU with temps ranging from -80C to -112C.




11-25-2011, 02:37 PM
the X58 Firmware for EVbot you can use it for an Untouchables, for the Classified GTX580's you need another firmware that's yet not official.

PM somebody of Evga to get a copy of it.
Then you have PWM etc control and Vgpu untill 1.8v


11-25-2011, 05:12 PM
Thanks for the reply. I think they should change the EVBot article reference for clarity.

Since the P67 FTW doesn't have an EVBot connector, I don't think I can even flash the firmware on the EVBot. Is that correct?

11-25-2011, 07:15 PM
If you don't have mbo connector, you can't flash evbot and you need to flash it for GTX 580 Classified firmware. Also you have that firmware on EVGA's site, under EVBot product...

11-26-2011, 04:54 AM
if you whant more then 1.3Vgpu you need to not official firmware for Classified gtx580.

the official only goes to 1.3v

11-26-2011, 02:02 PM
Looks like I'm out of luck since I don't have a way to flash the EVBot...

Thanks anyways.

11-26-2011, 02:17 PM
ask a friend or so with evga mobo to flash it, there's always a solution for a problem

11-30-2011, 03:16 PM
I have some OC issues with this card. Maybe you guys have an idea.

Pretested card with DICE first. Did 1160MHz Core (3DM03) on 1,35V. Last week I got 150L LN2 so started testing on LN2.
As soon as I use clocks over 1200MHz the screen just turns black, gray or white during the benchmark. Tested alot of different voltages and temperatures. Also no change if the memory is overvolted/overclocked.

Temperatures from -50 to -145C
Voltages from 1,3V to 1,55V

Switch is on OC-BIOS as I'm using the EVBot for overclocking. I realy got no Idea anymore why I can't get the card to run higher clocks.

Card is insulated with liquid-tape and Armaflex so can't be condensation water or something like that. Got the EVGA Extreme-Cooling-Bracket on the card to keep the VRMs cool.


M4E + 2600K
IKONIK 1000W PSU (could that be the problem?)

11-30-2011, 03:20 PM
i had the same problem, with me it was to weak PSU i think.

i just had the same problem, 1200Mhz black screen, even when i raised the pll a little bit or changed the PWM

11-30-2011, 03:23 PM
So you changed the PSU and now you can run higher clocks?

I also tried different PLL voltages and changed PWM freq but without success

11-30-2011, 04:16 PM
three things :)
1) Yes you need a strong PSU when benching GTX580. Also need to use multiple 12v rails if possibile/necessary.
2) Extremely important to use the right thermalpaste. OCZ Freeze, Gelid GCX, EVGA stuff ..
3) some 580 cores are just crap. (<1300) Nothing to do about it. Not even Classified or Lightning design helps. It's not that common, but it happens.

11-30-2011, 04:22 PM
Thanks for your answer :)

1) I also have a Corsair 1000W PSU here. Will try that one tomorrow
2) Used Arctic Ceramique (gonna order some EVGA Frostbite to try)
3) I hope not :D

11-30-2011, 05:00 PM
didn't test it yet, because i hear the PSU clicking and shutting off.

now i have a 1050w psu , hope that will be enough, otherwise i will put a antec quadro OC Edition on vga and other psu on mobo and cpu.

11-30-2011, 05:04 PM
Could very well be your PSU is the problem.

Tin show's in this thread how a 580 can exceed 800W by itself when benched hard.

11-30-2011, 10:07 PM
3) some 580 cores are just crap. (<1300) Nothing to do about it. Not even Classified or Lightning design helps. It's not that common, but it happens.

Well, I tested more than 20 Classified's w/o any crazy stuff, just vaseline insulation and all of them did more than 1300, most of them in range 1450-1500mhz, some 1600mhz. That's ofc in 3D11.

12-01-2011, 03:55 AM
three things :)

3) some 580 cores are just crap. (<1300) Nothing to do about it. Not even Classified or Lightning design helps. It's not that common, but it happens.

i tried 3 different 580 cores...all did 1500mhz :)

12-01-2011, 11:28 AM
Corsair AX1200
Antec HCP 1200 would be fine for the VGA.

and extra PSU for Mobo and CPU

12-01-2011, 12:50 PM
Well, I tested more than 20 Classified's w/o any crazy stuff, just vaseline insulation and all of them did more than 1300, most of them in range 1450-1500mhz, some 1600mhz. That's ofc in 3D11.

recently tested a bunch of Lightnings. All did 1500+ but one was just crashing all the time at 1300. GPU on that one was the best ive seen on air. Anyway, heard there are more people running into "bad" cards. Nothing to do about it.

12-04-2011, 02:10 PM
Problem seems to be solved ;) Thanks guys!

Changed to EVGA Frostbite now and used different 12V rails.

Quick test with 1,40vGPU:

Christian Ney
12-05-2011, 08:12 AM
Still dice?

12-05-2011, 11:31 AM
you can't do 1450mhz on dice :P

Christian Ney
12-05-2011, 11:38 AM
Who knows :D

12-05-2011, 12:50 PM
it was under LN2 :)

And now 1500+ please...

Christian Ney
12-05-2011, 01:02 PM
I want to see those 1600+ MHz, less is useless :p

12-05-2011, 06:46 PM
Haha :D

No it was LN2 ;) Didnt have more time and the card was also not insulated so had alot of ice everywhere after one hour. More soon ;)